AW14 Beauty Trends

Well what a nuisance to have my busiest time in the salon, and a bad case of writers block over the fashion week period! Especially with this being the Autumn Winter showcase, which are typically always my favourites.

So this season I've been catching the shows online in between clients, and spending my bedtimes on Vogue.com reading show reports. Oh the glamour of fashion...

Well, what should we be wearing on our faces come September according to the fashion giants? To start with....blue. Yes, blue. 

At Temperley make-up artist Lisa Eldridge created blunt, squared ended flicks of eyeliner in bright blue. Keeping skin, lips and brows natural, all focus was on the outer part of the eye, with a soft peachy tone in the inner lash line and tear duct. Then over at Giles Lucia Pieroni created a soft punk look, with pastel blue shadow applied to the lower lash line, and deep grey smokiness on the eyelid. Finally at Michael Van der Ham, Sam Bryant used MAC to create a girlie 60's look with orange lips and a simple wash of dove blue on eyelids. Whatever way you wear it, blue is looking like a top trend for AW14.

Temperley- Image Cosmopolitan

Michael Van der Ham. Image- Cosmopolitan

 I'll be stocking up on Illamasqua eyeshadow in Anja, Illamasqua Eye Colouring Pencil in Debonair, MUA Gel Eyeliner in Blue and Crown All Eyes On You set for a professional finish.

Gucci Image- Cosmopolitan

The make-up genius and my ultimate heroine, Pat McGrath created stunning looks this season, as predicted. Inspired by the 1950s and 1960s the looks she created for Dolce and Gabbana and Gucci are wearable, simple to create, yet effective.

Dolce Image- Cosmopolitan

At Dolce and Gabbana models wore clean flicks of liquid eyeliner teamed with fuller brows, flushed cheeks and a naturally flawless complexion. Then over at Gucci, we jumped forward a decade to a 60s dollesque look. Focusing on longer bottom lashes and fuller, thicker top lashes, teamed with a muted pink/mauve lip. 

As a lover of vintage inspired looks, and liquid liner framed with full lashes, I swear by Eyeko Eye Do Liquid Eyeliner, Eyeko Eye Do Mascara, Liz Martins Lashes and Art Deco Teint Concealer. 

London Collections Mens: The good, the bad and the stylish.

You may find it hugely surprising but I honestly love London Collection Mens just as much as i love women's LFW. And I swear it's not all to do with those beautiful models and their striking bone structure....honest.

No, for me half of a gents appeal is in his dressing, and I confess (reddened face hidden behind hands) to be majorly 'put off' a date if I disapprove of their outfit. And I'm talking sneak out the bathroom window never to see a second date kind of 'put off'. But then I'm sure some see my cloche hat, brogues and fur coat and cringe at the thought of walking alongside a young women trapped in her granny's hey day. Ah the problems us fussy girls face today.

So back to the trends I've spied at the LCM AW14 shows this week. (From the comfort of my sofa unfortunately, work has kept me in the northern hemisphere this time) And I must admit, hand on heart, brownies honour, that I didn't like all I saw. In fact. A lot I seriously hated. If Instagram had a 'I hope to god I never meet a guy in that' button I would have hit it thousands of times.

Maybe I'm too stuck in the past, where men clothed in their Sunday best every day of the week, or maybe I just seriously hate men in 90s over sized trousers, Disneyland ears and heels (no joke- HEELS).

Let's start with...

THE GOOD (oh how I hate the word good.)

It was raining menswear over at Topman, who showcased a palette of black, bright red and a tone between powder blue and dove grey. With a collection of chunky knits, leather and even a transparent  cape, you can bet this high street favourite will be dressing the majority of twenty something men come October. I am however hoping the transparent cape does not make its way into the Liverpool store.

Onto yet more shades of vivid blue and bold red, and a great collection of casual knitwear. At John Smedley, we saw geometric print and bold striped jumpers teamed with matching tonal trousers. The jumpers I like, the matching trousers however may just be a step too far for the average Joe. But against some slim denims, we may be about to push those awful Christmas jumpers out of the wardrobe for good! Oh what a joy!

At fashionistas favourite Paul Smith, we had what looked like a smart simple collection. But on closer inspection I spied the bold tartan and floral patterns running through the suits, the overly wrapped chunky scarves and the camel print which adorn them. An all round pleasant collection in navy, terracotta and grey, but nothing ground breaking here.

Image- VOGUE

Close your eyes, it's time for...

THE BAD (and the ugly.)

Well lets start with my least favourite...then things can only get better hey. Katie Eary what were you thinking?! Hair reminiscent of Prodigy's Keith in their Firestarter days, with frightening Mickey Mouse headgear alongside red (yes, red AGAIN) leopard and cartoon animal prints. It was all very punk meets 90s- and definitely not my cup of tea!

I'm all for androgynous looks, but for me, JW Anderson took it too far this season. Heels?! For men?! And I'm not talking Tom Cruise style stacks, I'm talking platform loafers.Then theres the bag- a rigid bucket bag, that looks more Jack and Jill than a key accessory. And finally, the sleeveless shirts. No. Sorry, but this is just too far for my liking!

Then its back to Mickey Mouse ears over at MAN. Not only ears, but horns too, and mouth guards, teamed with jumpers featuring the classic Disney font. Whatever magic potion their taking, I think I'll pass thanks.

Image- VOGUE

and thankfully...

THE STYLISH 

Gieves and Hawkes unsurprisingly impressed me immensely. But then given working on their store relaunch last year was one of my favourite jobs, I'm not shocked. With a masculine palette of moss and khaki green alongside classic navy, grey and brown in fabrics such as tweed, shearling and cashmere, our men can still look suitably stylish in the colder British months.

Plus with a new eyewear range and a great selection of accessories designer Jason Basmajian has definitely made this 243 year old Saville Row brand proud.

 This season also saw Thomas Pink's LCM debut- and what a debut it was. A mixture of their heritage classic shirts and office wear, with surprising hints of AW key colours teal and tomato red.

Chester Barrie's satin paisley scarfs, midnight blue velvet loafers and teal roll necks also made me sit up and take note, whilst Hardy Amies was another brand I breathed a sigh of fashion relief at. Yet another heritage Saville Row brand showcasing beautifully cut suits, crisp shirts and tailored coats in an array of classic neutrals with accents of cobalt blue and terracotta. The collection was completed with silk pocket squares and classic Grenson shoes.

Finally, we saw cult high street and mums favourite brand Marks and Spencer stamp their thrifty mark on the London fashion scene. With their third Best of British collection, they drew inspiration from Sir David Frost and Sir Michael Caine to create a contemporary range of classic tailoring, luxury cashmere and Prince of Wales check.

Other brands I'd suggest having your beady eyes on when the leaves fall is Duchamp,Hackett, John Lobb, Kent and Curwen and Pringle. 

Image- VOGUE

So if this weeks shows have anything to go by, this Autumn I'll be hanging around the great British High Street, avoiding those who seem to think its 1992, have visited Disneyland and those whose heels are higher than mine. 

It's certainly going to be an interesting one....

PFW SS14 Make-up Trends

Finally- we've come to the last post in the SS14 series- Paris! The city I am desperate to visit, for a weekend of jazz, coffee and romance. 

(Can you tell I've been watching a bit too much Midnight in Paris?!)

Paris Fashion Week, to me, is all about Chanel, beautiful  elegant Chanel, all wrapped up in a pearl necklace with a tweed jacket.

Well, we are mid way into October, and yet everyone is STILL talking about last months Chanel show. Why?! Well, to say it was bright and arty is an understatement.

IMAGE- MARIE CLAIRE

Chanel's former Global make-up director, Peter Phillips, created a rainbow eye, framed with thick black liner. Think blue, yellow, gold, green and pink. Yes. That's right. At Chanel. 

We've yet to hear which products Phillips used to create a well love artists palette on models such as Cara Delevingne, but I'm guessing they aren't from Chanel's subtle range. I would hazard a guess that these strong colours have come from the pro favourite, MUFE Flash Palette. These grease paints are packed with colour, and are easily set used loose pigments. 

Next to a slightly more wearable look, from Kenzo. Artist Aaron De May for MAC, created a striking white liner, accompanying bleached brow, nude lashes and bare skin. 

I personally love white top liner, especially when teamed with a bright eyeshadow on a darker complexion- it's a great way to mix up your usual routine!

My favourite budget white liner is from Barry M, once applied its completely waterproof and smuge resisitant! Try using an angled eyeliner brush from Crown for a precise application.

Finally, another show stopping look, this time from now other than Vivienne Westwood.

Make-up legend, Val Garland was in the head chair here, and her inspiration was- 

'Girl waiting for bus, getting splattered by mud'. 

So, just your average brief in the world of Westwood.

The only product I would suggest trying this look with is MAC Pro Acrylic Paint. Unfortunately this is only available to professional artists, but to be honest, I can't see many of you choosing this as your holiday look!

As the SS14 shows now draw to a close, we can return to the 90's punk movement of AW13, safe in the knowledge that whatever make-up we chose next year, it's safe to say, one designer has showcased it this season.

So, have fun, be creative and most of all- embrace it. After all, it's only make-up.

MFW SS14 Make-up Trends

As we get deeper in the depths of October, those SS14 shows seem further and further away! But, as a fashion week obsessive, I'm still cooing over those images from the four fashion capitals.

Image- ELLE UK

Over in Milan, Make-up was mainly pretty simple with hints of colour on either lips and eyes- but rarely both.

Make-up queen Pat McGrath was once again on hand at Dolce and Gabbana, creating a soft beautifully feminine feel, inspired by Sophia Loren. McGrath used the Dolce and Gabbana make-up line, buffing Luminous Cheek Colour in Rosebud, Apricot and Peach to the areas we would traditionally apply bronzer- forehead, cheek, nose and chin. She also used peachy tones as a wash of colour over the eyelid and pressed into lips for a natural stain.

For a purse friendly alternative, try Bourjois cream blush in Healthy Glow. Smooth onto lid and lips using your finger, and buff into skin using Duo Fibre brush from Crown.

Whilst at Frankie Morello, top MAC artist Terry Barber, created that SS14 staple- the orange lip. With porcelain skin, kept fresh and dewy and eyes left completely nude, all focus was on that lip. Applied in a relaxed fashion- no precise lip lining here- was MAC's SS launch, Velvetease lip pencil in Lover's Lane, topped with loose orange pigment for a totally matte finish. If you can't wait until Spring, invest in Barry M Lip Liner in 113 and NYX Loose Eyeshadow in Orange Zest.

IMAGE- ELLE UK

But, my favourite show of all at Milan, has to be Moschino. Here Tom Pecheux was inspired by the collections Good Girl/ Bad Girl Theme, and designed two completing contrasting looks.

The first, an angelic bare faced look, with dewy skin. The quickest way to achieve such a look, is to moistuise the skin well, using massaging motions, always working outwards towards the ears. Next, mix two of my all time favourite MAC products together- MAC Face and Body and Strobe Cream before buffing into skin using Crown Dual Fibre brush in circular motions. 

The 'Bad Girl' look consisted of a bold red lip and a graphic red and black eye liner. Backstage gossip suggests that Pecheux played around with a variety of shapes before choosing his favourite- a lesson that we should all learn. After all, make-up is the simplest tool to play with when creating a new look for ourselves.

The latest gel liner to find its way into my kit is from Illamasqua, and would be ideal for this look.

You can also pick up Colouring Pencil in Spell, which can be used alongside the black liner and as your lip colour too.

Three down, one to go, but already it looks like the SS14 make-up trends are wide open- bring on the creativity!

LFW SS14 Make-up Trends

As the fashion pack leave London behind and head to the streets of Milan, it's time to look back at which collections inspired us the most, make-up wise.

The week was filled with a variety of looks- bold lips, soft eyes, nude cheeks and everything in-between!

The 1970's was one decade that cropped up in a few shows- Holly Fulton, Temperly, Paul Smith and Jean Pierre Braganza were three of those shows, each inspired by different aspects of the disco days. I for one, will be embracing this look- I would do anything to have been a fly on the wall at Studio 54 in its heyday!

Temperly

At Temperly, Lisa Eldridge created soft Hollywood glamour, with warm apricot shadows buffed seamless around eyes, teamed with a glowing complexion, whilst at Paul Smith and Jean Pierre Braganza artists Petros Petrohilos and Terry Barber sought inspiration from British actress and fashion icon Jane Birkin.
 (It's not just anyone gets a Hermes bag named after them.. )

Jean Pierre Braganza

Soft fluffy lashes and sunkissed freckles were on the agenda at Paul Smith, where Petrohilos created natural looking freckles using MAC Coffee eyeliner and Strut Eyebrow pencil, across the nose and cheek area. At Jean Pierre Bragazna, MACs Make up director, Barber, focused his attention on long, full lashes. 
And lots of them- including a full set of strips on the bottom lashes. The rest of the make up was keep subtle- light gloss on eyes and a nude cream lip. 
The modern 70's vibe is very under-stated, expressing our natural beauty with simple definition around the eyes. An easy trend to follow at home!

Paul Smith

Talking of 70's disco, gold glitter was once again dancing down the catwalk, as it was in New York. At Micheal Van Der Ham make up artist Lauren Parsons created sophisticated glitter eyes, by pressing MAC gold pigment and glitter onto models eyelids, adding subtle definition with a neutral taupe along the socket line. For added drama you could add lots of black liner, kohl on the waterline and mascara, for the ultimate party make-up.

But spring wouldn't be spring without a hint of pastel. At Peter Pilotto make up artists Lucia Pica dressed models lips with an array of matt pastel tones.  If you fancy a change from the traditional pastel pink, why not dip your toes into a lovely lilac? Try wearing with a sun kissed bronzed glow and muted eye make up. Illamasqua have a great range of lip colour's including a selection of mauve tones- I love Lavender shade Liv.



2 weeks down, 2 to go, and I can't wait to see which make-up gems Milan and Paris have in store in us!

LFW SS14 Day 4

IMAGE- FASHION SCOUT

The penultimate day of London fashion week has arrived, amongst a flood worthy amount of rain. Or were they my tears? From what sat in my bag, placed within a busy classrom, full of eager make-up students, was my ticket to Scottish designer Pam Hogg's show. 

Gutted doesn't even begin to describe it.

As one of Lady Gaga's favouirte designers, we all knew her collection would be pretty outrageous. And Hogg did not dissapoint. Latex bodysuits, panelled dressed and super tight pencil skirts, in bold shades of silver and yellow alongisde SS14 staples monochrome and dusky pink, models heads were decorated with rather interesting headwear. These took the term 'floral crown' to the next level. 

Make-up however, was very underplayed in comparision. The Body Shop team, lined the models waterlines with white kohl, and kept lashes, brows and lips subtle, whilst the Label M stylists used rollers to create bouncy, sexy curls.

IMAGE- VOGUE

From bold latex, to a wearable collection packed with beautifully soft pastels. Chrsitopher Bailey has done it once again. I am seriously in love with the SS14 Burberry Prorsum range.

The show, held near Kensington Gardens, was , of course, attended by Burberry 'faces' Sienna Miller and Alex Chung, and had a FROW to rivial House of Holland and Mulberry. 

Sheer skirts and blouses, cashmere jumpers, pencil dresses and of course, the staple Burberry trench, were all treated to soft washes of candy pastels. And if we weren't convinced this collection was aimed at Spring-time, the petals which descended on the guests during the finale, confirmed which season Bailey was designing for.

Make-up artist Wendy Rowe, used Burberrys make-up range to create a soft, pretty make-up inspired by an English Rose. With a soft diffusion of pink buffed onto eyes and an earth blush for cheek countour, skin was naturally glowing.

Well, Burberry, this collection for me, is what dreams are made of. God help my credit card.

IMAGE- VOGUE

From a soft Spring at Burberry, to what usually resembles an AW collection at Giles.

From show stopping black and taupe gowns, accesorised with ostrich feathers, to bold lip prints and dresses featuring images of sultry women, the collection seemed rather disjointed. But, no doubt, aspects of each piece will make it onto our high street fairly soon.

With hair swept into loose side plaits, make-up had an etheral feel, again usually seen on the February AW catwaks. 

With one day left, we can be sure that from what we have seen so far, in Spring Summer 2014 anything goes!

LFW SS14 Day 2

After a manic day running round the city beneath a SS12 Cath Kidston umbrella, it was back to Liverpool for me, and a 14 hours of clients at So Coco Rouge. So, it was back to streaming shows online and drooling over the new collections we have ahead of us.

IMAGE- Herald Scotland

Holly Fulton has been one of my favourite designers since she launched her label back in 2009- which is no doubt due to our joint love (some say obsession...) with the Art Deco era. Next season however, she's been inspired by an era, a little closer- the 1970's. With a large collection, packed with a variety of prints and multi-tonal palettes of blue, orange and grey, Fulton provided us with a complete Summer wardrobe. Perfect for sunny days yachting in Cannes.

Hair and make-up was also inspired by the disco days- a sleek deep set parting sweeping into full, tight curls, brushed through, creating cloud-like fluffiness. Brushed through brows, vivid purple shadow applied to the eye lid and right up to the brow and a metallic bronze-nude lip completed the look. 

IMAGE- VOGUE

Then, it's onto yet another favourite- John Rocha- A collection that I turn to for inspiration every year. Rocha's SS14 collection was another to include a monochrome palette, alongside delicate floral patterns, ruffled fabric and sheer panels. The MAC make-up team created metallic silver eyes, by using loose pigments and teamed this with feminine soft pink lips and slicked back, crimped hair. 

IMAGE- VOGUE

As early evening approached, it was time for the celebrities favourite and fun filled brand, House of Holland. With a FROW consisting of Harry Styles, Kelly Osbourne, Nick Grimshaw and Elllie Goulding, this show is instantly guaranteed newsworthy- but did the collection stand up to its Holland's credentials? 

It most certainly does. Lace, checks, florals and  religious motifs. Metallics, pastels, bright primaries and denim. Accessorised with cat-eye sunglasses and peaked caps, what more could you ask for? 

And the make-up pleased me immensely- luminous complexions, flicks of liquid liner and full raspberry red lips. Hair was styled by Babyliss, using a heated wand to create loose summer waves, finished with slicked back front.

NYFW SS14 Nail Trends

We've already been inspired by the make-up trrends emerging for Spring Summer 2014 from the New York shows, but what should we be doing with our nails?!

Nail art was still in full force, but this time much simplier and angular. Think lots of stripes, in a variety of thickness, colour and direction. If you are feeling particulary arty this season you could even create a 'checkboard' design to match your tartan skirt or shirt!

OPI for Holmes and Yang

The traditional french manicure also got a little makeover over at Holmes and Yang, actress Katie Holmes' brand. Here the nail tech's from OPI added a slanted tip in deep blue I Saw U Saw We Saw Warsaw over nude pink base So many Clowns So Little Time.

I really like this look, and would be tempted to finish the blue tip with  Matte Top Coat for a multi dimensial manicure!

OPI Nail Lacquer

OPI for Joanna Mastroianni

Planning on trying the orange lip trend we saw at Rag & Bone, then why not add a bright nail to clash yet compliment? At Joanna Mastroianni that did just that, as models sported bright yellow nails, against their tangerine lips. Once again the OPI team were on hand, and used Need Sunglasses with a super glossy top coat. (no doubt Rapidry Top Coat knowing how busy it is backstage!!)

Well, it's certainly looking like statement nails are here to stay. for another season at least!

NYFW SS14 Make-up Trends

It might be grey, rainy and miserable here in the UK, but over in New York, where the late summer sun is still shining, the catwalks are full of the joys of Spring.

Yes, its fashion Week once again! 

So, after 7 days of shows, including the iconic Diane Von Furstenburg, Marc Jacobs and Alexander Wang, what beauty trends can we be expected to fall for when the sunshine returns next year?

From flawlessly natural at Sass & Bide and Jenny Packam, to rose gold glitter eyes at Jason Wu and bright pop's of colour at Marc Jacobs and Rag & Bone, next season your make-up bag is your oyster.

This makes a great change- Spring Summer make-up has been too plain, too pastel for too long in my opinion. It's about time we all embraced the amazing products we have at our disposal and started to treat make-up as creative tool. Your face is simply a bank canvas for your own creativity.

Fancy getting ahead of the pack and trying a SS14 trend this winter? Then make sure you pair your bright pop or colour, or glitter eye with a flawless base. Charlotte Tilbury was in charge of the fresh, natural complexion created at Sass and Bide, and from the design sheet she posted on her Instagram page this morning we can presume she used MAC products primarily. My personal favourite is MAC Face and Body, which is lightweight, water resistant and offers a light-to-medium buildable coverage. (A great pro tip is to apply a small amount to the palms of your hand and 'clap' your hands together. This creates a thicker tecture which you can apply using your hands.) For a purse friendly alternative, you could also try Bourjois Radiance Reveal Healthy Mix Foundation or No7 Instant Radiance Foundation.

At Marc Jacobs make-up artist Dick Page, created bold blue washes of colour over models lid's by using Shiseido Shimmering Eye Cream in Ice Blue followed by an electric blue eyeshadow. Dick admitted this look followed no inspiration- just that he and Marc loved the colour and decided to add a pop of colour! 

You could also try Nars Duo Cream Eyeshadow in Burn It Blue (using the cream only) and follow with MAC Eyeshadow in Electri Eel for a very similar look. Finish with two coats of black mascara, soft neutral cheeks and a natural lip.

If you'd rather keep your pop of colour simple, try a slick of orange on your lips.

A first for Rag & Bone, make-up artist Gucci Westman created a super bright lip, which constrasted beautifully against the clothings neutral palette.

Gucci used a brand new colour from Revlon, Carnival, which doesn't launch until Spring next year, but MAC Morange or Illamasqua Flare are available now and will create a similar look.

Keeping skin natural and lumious, a bright matte lip is a fantastic yet simple way to play with texture.

And finally, if you want to make an impact at this years christmas party then try Diane Kendal's rose gold glitter eye shown at Jason Wu. Using Lancome Le Crayon Khôl in Black Coffee in the socket line for extra definition, followed by a mix of golden brown tones to the lid before applying loose glitter on damp brushes, to aid placement. I love Make-up Forever Glitter in Beige which is available in the UK from Guru make-up Emporium.

Phew. One city down, three to go!